September 2026 | Terroir Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonBrookdale 2024 Old Vine Chenin Blanc
The Old Vine Chenin Blanc comes from vines planted in 1985 on decomposed shale and granite soils in the Paarl region of South Africa. A very challenging 2024 vintage resulted in a dense, opulent wine, bolstered by heat and exceptionally windy summer conditions. In the glass, this wine is deep in color with a generous nose of apricot pits, Fuji apples, nectarines, fresh honey, and wildflowers. After 15 minutes of air, tropical fruit notes emerge alongside a ton of minerality on the back palate - amplified by 11 months of extended lees contact in large barrels. After a couple of hours, the profile becomes more candied with orange oil, coming together in a very cohesive manner. On day two, the wine has tamed slightly, and the palate feels more taut; it has essentially leaned out a bit, offering a structural profile shift that I really enjoy.
For food pairings, I might suggest a hearty dish such as chicken (or pork!) katsu, dal, or vegetable ratatouille. Drink now through 2032 in large-bowl stemware, served just above refrigeration temperature.
Gonon 2023 Saint-Joseph
Never did I think this little shop in Aptos could receive enough Gonon to place in a wine club, but times are weird and wine is great! Pierre Gonon is a reminder of a bygone era. Prior to climate change and modern trends, younger brothers Jean and Pierre learned from their father (also Pierre) how to farm through horse-plowed vineyards, intense pruning, and relentless chemical-free practices. The brothers haven't changed a single thing about how their father made wine. The result transports you back to the wines of the '70s, '80s, and '90s - when alcohol levels were low and structures were tight. While I’m sure it won't be everyone’s cup of tea, the structure of these wines makes them absolutely remarkable for food and cellaring. Built like a brick house and they still manage to sing like a bird.
Upon opening, the nose is absolutely gorgeous - smelling like the bottom of a freshly baked chocolate chip cookie alongside Castelvetrano olives, tapenade, dark cherries, and pink peppercorns. After a few minutes, the wine reverberates with fresh sage, root beer, and cocoa as the palate begins to show bright acidity. Hours later, it becomes more floral with alpine blueberry and wilting violets, revealing a pure, bright touch of darker tones. On day two, the body softens while the edges tighten, leaving a core of delicate baked fruit wrapped around wet basalt.
For food pairings, you can go wild here: think boar with wild rice, grilled lamb, or wild mushroom shepherd’s pie. Drink now through 2040 in all-purpose or large-bowl stemware at cellar temperature.
Giornata 2023 Montepulciano
If you’ve been in my wine club since the pandemic (how was that both so long ago and yesterday?), you may recall when I drove all around the Bay Area, Paso Robles, Napa, and Sonoma to support small wineries that took massive sales hits. One of the producers I loved meeting was Brian and Stephanie Terrizzi of Giornata - an all-Italian varietal label (who also make fresh pasta and run an Italian delicatessen).
On the pop, this wine opens with dense blackberry and marionberry around a core of Mission fig. The palate is phenolic, surrounding a fuller mid-palate with moderate acidity that lightly carries a finish of graham cracker and suede. After an hour or so, wet eucalyptus comes through on the nose alongside a hint of Luxardo and sweet cherry. The palate becomes less plush and more tense, ending with a drying sensation on the back palate. By the end of day one, the wine comes together as all the aforementioned notes coalesce nicely with slightly elevated acidity. By day two, the wine takes on a grittier tone with black pepper and a brighter, more lifted overall profile. While both days offer distinct experiences, I slightly prefer the plushness of day one.
For food pairing I would select hearty dishes with density, such as beef stew, shepherd’s pie, or tomato-and-balsamic-marinated portobello mushrooms over polenta. Drink now through 2033. Serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature.