September 2025 | Terroir Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonMonte Dall’Ora 2012 “Stropa” Amarone della Valpolicella
The two red wines in the Terroir Club offering this shipment couldn't be more different! The Amarone della Valpolicella is a blend of traditional varietals, comprising 50% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, and 10% Molinara, Oselata, and Croatina. All the grapes are grown biodynamically and harvested in mid-September, where the best selection is set aside to dehydrate in wooden crates for approximately four months. In December, the grapes are destemmed, and then maceration and native yeast fermentation take place in oak vats for 30–40 days. The resulting wine ages in small oak barrels for three years, followed by a minimum of 30 months in the bottle prior to its release.
From a service perspective, the wax is relatively easy to remove with a waiter's key knife. I opted to use a Durand/Ah-so to remove the cork, though a delicate hand could easily remove it in one piece. Immediately upon opening, the wine reveals deep and plush notes of olives, leather, suede, tarragon, and cinnamon spice. The dominance of savory, aged aromatics over fruit is typical for the glass. The bouquet opens like a collection of Christmas aromas with caramel custard, the inside of a fruitcake, and the bottom of a brownie (even though the wine is fermented dry). After an hour, the wine sinks further into notes of molasses, stewed meats, orange rinds, and sage butter. There is a ton of secondary and tertiary dimension here, but the wine doesn't last into day two with the same aromatic integrity, likely due to a low-sulfur regime as well as the age of the bottle. This is absolutely a savory food wine. Consider pairing it with venison stews, lamb with balsamic reduction, or wild fowl. Drink now and serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature.
Château de la Font du Loup 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes
In a stark contrast to the aged Amarone, this young Châteauneuf-du-Pape is bright, lifted, and drinks well for days at present. Similar to traditional blends, it is 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cinsault from the cooler, sandy Font du Loup lieu-dit; fermentation and élevage followed standard protocols. Upon opening, this wine presents fresh and vibrant notes of cherry, white plums, Loganberry, spearmint, and underripe wild bramble.
Structurally, the alcohol feels balanced—not always easy to achieve with Châteauneuf-du-Pape—with moderate tannins and balanced acidity. Over time, the profile shifts between blood orange, sarsaparilla, cinnamon oils, raspberry candy, and caramel candies. Well into day two, the wine maintains its gorgeous aromatics and shows little sign of change. For food pairings, this wine would complement a surprisingly wide diversity of flavors, from Indian Dal to grilled rack of lamb with tapenade. Its fruit dominance and structural lift can accommodate a range of profiles. Drink now through 2034 and serve in large-bowl stemware at cellar temperature.
Danjou Banessy 2022 “Coste” Blanc
Domaine Danjou-Banessy is a 17-hectare estate located in French Catalonia near the confluence of the Spanish border and the Mediterranean. All vineyards are farmed biodynamically and organically, without the use of herbicides or pesticides. The 2022 “Coste” Blanc is 100% Macabeu from a three-hectare vineyard planted between 1990 and 2005 on clay-limestone soil. The fruit was gently whole-cluster pressed with native yeast fermentation and aged for 12 months in used barrels and foudre. Winemakers Benoît and Sébastien Banessy neither inhibit nor encourage malolactic fermentation, but rather accept what the vintage dictates. This year, the wine underwent full malolactic fermentation, which likely contributes to its softer overall profile.
Upon opening, the wine has an almost lanolin- or wax-like character with notes of lemon flowers, coconut cream, honeycomb, and an astonishing amount of minerality. After an hour or so, the wine integrates its malolactic fermentation and minerality to become softer and more pollen-like. On day two, the wine lifts back out of that soft, plush character and is elevated with white floral aromatics like gardenia and lily. For food pairings, I would opt for more subdued options like scallops, soft cheeses, or panzanella. Drink now through 2028 and serve in all-purpose stemware at refrigeration temperature.