September 2025 | Enthusiast Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonBrandini 2023 “Filari Lunghi” Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba
These Dolcetto vines, grown in the traditional village of Diano, are on average 70 years old and thrive in limestone and clay soils at an elevation of 400 meters. The vines are farmed using certified organic methods, and the resulting wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel to preserve the bright aromatics that the vineyard provides. Immediately upon opening, the wine expresses bright aromatics of violet liqueur, pink lady apples, and wildflowers. It offers refreshing acidity and integrated tannins that feel granitic in their presence. After approximately thirty minutes (and with a slight chill, a personal preference), the red tones of the wine emerge, presenting notes of cherry bark and Peychaud's bitters.
After several hours, the acidity began to peak, with the wine's overall integrity maintaining its expression well into the second day. Due to the slightly elevated acidity, I would encourage pairing this wine with filled pasta dishes and moderately weighty sauces, such as Cappelletti, Tortellini en Brodo, or Agnolotti del Plin with broth or tomato-based sauces. Drink now through 2031 and serve at cellar temperature in all-purpose stemware.
Domaine de Gouye 2023 Gabouillon Syrah
Located one mile outside of and above the village of Saint-Joseph, these estate vines are at an elevation of 1,080 feet. The **terroir** is similar to the surrounding area, consisting of largely decomposed granite. The grapes are fermented with whole clusters, foot-trodden with indigenous yeasts in upright oak fermenters, then aged for seven months in tank and neutral oak. Initially, the wine needed a few minutes to open up, but it soon revealed notes of black pepper oils, flint, graphite, menthol, and white chocolate, along with a kick of grapefruit oils and wild blueberry. The complexity is remarkable! On the palate, the wine has a supple, dense texture that, over time, evolves to show deeper tones of leather, dark chocolate, oyster mushroom, brown sugar, and black licorice. The secondary flavors persist over the fruit well into the second day, when bramble finally emerges, lifted by cardamom spice and fresh violets.
Given its density, this wine will benefit from being opened an hour or two before your meal when young. It pairs well with hearty stews, mushroom risotto, or game with a wine reduction. The wine is ready to drink now and can be aged until 2035. Serve it at cellar temperature in all-purpose stemware.
Alegre Valgañón 2023 Rioja Blanco
Produced from a small vineyard in Galbárruri, this wine is composed of 90% old vine Viura (the traditional varietal of Rioja Blanco) and 10% young vines of Garnacha Blanco. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel and then pressed into neutral wood demi-muids to age for 10 months prior to bottling.
The nose is exhilarating on the pop, with bright orange cups, lemonade powder, orange blossom water, lemongrass, and an almost malvasia-like lift of aromatics. Structurally, the wine has moderate acidity alongside a slight tannic "crunch" despite being pressed directly to the tank. After about an hour, the wine presents more honeyed notes that seem to soften the aforementioned aromatics with the emergence of Buddha's hand and guava. After several hours, the wine continues to soften with a creamy, butterscotch-like texture that feels more akin to "typical" Viura. Well into day two, the wine is still a joy to drink with a refreshing overall profile.
I would serve this wine alongside grilled seafood to complement the tannic structure, garnished with fresh aromatics to play with the vibrant notes in the glass. Drink now through 2027 or 2028, and serve in all-purpose stemware just above refrigeration temperature.