September 2024 | Terroir Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonCarlone 2019 Boca
The area of Boca is situated in north Piedmont in an area once seemingly flooded with vines. Throughout various disastrous situations from disease to hail to war, the total area under vine in Boca diminished to just several hectares. Starting in the 1990’s, with help from a couple peers, David started to reinvigorate Boca vineyards to the pre-World War II esteem. Folks eventually caught on and asked David to aid in their vineyards, and before you know it David has carved a little niche in Alto Piedmonte.
The 2019 entry level Boca from David is 85% Nebbiolo and 15% Vespolina, a blend David repeats throughout his cuvees. Immediately upon opening the wine is deep cherry leather, suede, and oily with red pomegranate fruits. On a tertiary level, the wine is eucalyptus, thyme, oregano, and carob. The wine feels rustic and mineral driven with a black pepper that slowly calms down as the wine opens. The wine essentially changes between the Nebbiolo side of the wine to the Vespolina side of the wine. On day two, the wine is more low tone and nestles down into a warm wine. Overall, I enjoy the wine most on day one as the arch of the wine is more dynamic and captivating. Serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature and serve alongside tartare, Shepherd’s pie, or roasted squash. Drink now – 2034.
Stratum Wines "La Servil" 2019 Monastrell
What an incredible wine from such a warm climate; Stratum is a Jumilla based project in south central Spain and the 2019 vintage is remarkable. The Stratum wines have been farmed and vinified organically, gaining them organic certification in 1989 with biodynamic certification in 2022. This wine comes from two vineyards that sit at ~ 3300 ft elevation on calcareous soils with gravely limestone and sand. The grapes were fermented with 20% whole cluster in wooden vats with native yeast ferments and aged in large wood vessel for 14 months.
The resulting wine is plush on the nose, with a feeling of being wrapped in a velvet blanket with a candle of marionberry and cocoa burning beside you. The wine sinks into black pepper with a round fruit notes of Japanese plum and dark cherry. The wine holds well on day two and can even handle a slight chill should you feel like it (not better either way, just a possibility). For food pairings I would opt for asada, grilled eggplant with red sauce, or grilled octopus. Drink now – 2030 and serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature.
Sylvain & Alain Normand Au Vignerais Pouilly Fuissé 1er
Sylvain and Alain have been farming organically while focusing on long, slow fermentations since their establishment in 1993. Pouilly Fuissé as a viticultural area has recently been on the rise due in large part to the recognition of discrete terroir here which has led to the 1er Cru system in this Mâconnais region of south Burgundy. This wine comes from a southeast facing 2.5 ha vineyards with parcel selection from the top slopes with a thin layer of clay and limestone. The vines are certified organic by Ecocert and were planted in 1930 and the wine was aged for 12 months in 80% new French oak.
I know what you’re thinking; “That’s a lot of new French oak”. And ya know what? You’re not wrong. With that said, new French oak on this wine is going to create an outstandingly beautiful and integrated wine in due time. Should you opt to drink this young, the wine shows loud notes such of guava, lemon custard, and vanilla wafer cookie. The oak calms down after a while and hints at what the wine will become with time, with great minerality, soft chamomile, and tighter acidity. With young Burgundy raised with a substantial amount of new oak, I highly suggest waiting 7-12 years after harvest to allow the oak to integrate before opening. With this wine, the perfect pairing is a roast chicken with generous amounts of butter and herbs. Serve in large bow stemware just above refrigeration temperature – drink 2028 – 2040.