November 2025 | Terroir Wine Club

Hirsch 2023 Sonoma Coast

The Estate Chardonnay is the only white wine produced at Hirsch Vineyards. It is composed of one older parcel planted in 1994 and a second, small parcel planted in 2002. For years, this biodynamically farmed fruit was sold to Williams Selyem and Kistler before Hirsch began working with it for their estate label. It should go without saying: this bottling is highly limited and a treat for all consumers and palates.

Stated simply, it’s the perfect “Goldilocks” Chardonnay. The palate is soft and delicate, with lifted aromatics of lemon oil, Granny Smith apple skin, baby powder, daisies, and mango sticky rice. It has a present but balanced acidity that is rounded out by a fruit character akin to citrus custard. After an hour or so, the wine becomes rounder and more forward, with more vocal notes of fresh pineapple, a more present sense of minerality, and an overall fuller presence. Throughout day two, the wine remains remarkably continuous and is slightly higher aromatically, with notes of passionfruit and grapefruit. I selected this wine because I wanted afficionados of high-end wines to have the perfect California Chardonnay—one that ideally everyone at a holiday dinner would love. It’s the perfect accompaniment to roast bird, sweet rolls, and seed crackers with hard cheeses. Drink now – 2033, and serve in large-bowl stemware just above refrigeration temperature.

Lioco 2022 Carignan

Lioco earned their stripes in the wine industry by specializing in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but their repertoire is now vast and expansive, incorporating “outliers” (their words). Carignan is a nice counterpart to Cru Beaujolais, Gamay (in general), and Dolcetto/Barbera; all of these varietals have a friendly sense of fruit yet are delicate enough to let another layer of personality shine.

In the glass, the wine offers lots of dark plum and raspberry, lifted by a bright note of Luxardo and pie filling. Structurally, the wine has bright acidity, tannins that quickly soften, and a spice that drives through the finish. Over time, the carbonic notes tame, easing into delicate fruit. However, on day two, the evolution takes almost a 180-degree turn, bolstering the fine tannin into prominence and revealing a bolder fruit character. Overall, I prefer the wine on day one, as I feel the evolution is more invigorating and appropriate for a dinner table. This wine was picked for a Thanksgiving meal, so if your dinner includes some of the cliché Americana food dishes, this should be lovely. Additionally, the bright fruit can stand up to spicy foods such as red curry, fatty ramen, or ratatouille. Drink now – 2030/2, and serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature.

Cesar Marquez 2021 “Pico Ferreira” Vino de Paraje

The number of times I find myself metaphorically running to the northwestern corner of Spain is telling. While Bierzo is Galicia-adjacent, I find similar talent, varietal composition, and energy here. The “Pico Ferreira” bottling is a blend made up of 85% Mencía, 10% Alicante Bouschet, and a remaining field blend. Made with 50% whole clusters, this wine is an excellent example of old-world value competing with the best wines in the world.

Right on the pop, the wine offers a really pretty bloody reduction (it’s nicer than it sounds) alongside graphite, saffron, dried raspberry, and abundant tannin with a slate-like structure. The wine has incredible longevity and genuinely barely changes over time; the core remains strong with incredible minerality and staunch structure. For food pairings, I would opt for rabbit, veal, grouse, or truly anything wild and earthy in feeling. Drink now – 2034/6, and serve in large-bowl stemware at cellar temperature.