November 2023 | Enthusiast Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonGeorge Descombes 2019 Brouilly
Some wines just hit and there’s no mistaking nor fussing about it. George Descombes is an old-school staple in Beaujolais creating wines of finesse and structure. On the pop this wine is cinnamon sticks, rose petals, dried raspberry leaves, and hibiscus. The palate has a silk-like texture with integrated acid and tannin. After several hours the wine becomes more red fruited, cherry, sandalwood, and earthy. If the wine is allowed to develop and evolve the wine turns almost brown in tone - think molasses, raspberry liqueur and black pepper oil - it’s a joy to watch this wine grow.
Drink now - 2040, peak window now - 2036. Serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature and serve alongside cured meats, chile, or tempeh red curry.
Damoli 2021 “Volavia” Valpolicella Classico
It’s refreshing when Valpolicella has typicity without feeling too heavy - this beautiful wine clocks in at a soft 12.5% ABV and dances with aromatics out of the glass. On first open are notes of high-tone currant and pomegranate, wet tobacco wrapper, cardamom, cherry, and a slippery caramel finish. After several minutes the wine opens and becomes more sandalwood, suede, and cumin. On day two the wine sinks lower in tone with brown butter, dried rose petals, mesquite BBQ, and graphite. I prefer the wine best when open for a couple hours, so I would either open the bottle slightly in advance or quickly decant.
Drink now - 2030, peak window now - 2026. Serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature and serve alongside carnitas, pozole rojo, or lamb skewers.
Jonathan Didier Pabiot 2022 Pouilly Fume
The Jonathan Didier Pabiot is a gorgeous, soft, low tone, Loire Sauvignon Blanc. On the pop, the wine is dandelion, lemon oil, and essentially perfect, soft Sauvignon Blanc. The palate is a freshly Zambonied ice rink with depth from yeast and lees with a soft water presence. After time, the wine develops to more pollen, white flowers, and minerality. The consistency of the wine is remarkable with notes of orange cups and croissant.
Drink now - 2036, peak window 2024 - 2030, and serve in all-purpose stemware just above refrigeration temperature. Serve alongside seafood with brown butter and herbs, roast vegetables, and hard cheeses.