November 2022 | Enthusiast Wine Clubby Caileen Brison
Jean-Paul Brun “Terres Dorees” 2020 Fleurie
This classic expression of Beaujolais perfectly dances the line between elegance and playfulness. On the pop the wine explodes in bombastic youthfulness with notes of juicy red cherry leather, zebra gum, plum skins, and purple flower notes. On the more savory side of the profile are notes of white pepper oil, brown sugar, and gripping graphite. The wine retains brightness and freshness even hours after being opened and on day two sinks into this more mature profile of herbal dark stone fruit. The wine becomes more integrated, more round on the palate, and incredibly enjoyable. Due to the elevated structure of the wine, I really encourage you to have some food with it; think something fatty and juicy. This would be a dream with pork belly banh mi or tofu teriyaki banh mi. Serve at cellar temperature in large bowl stemware and drink now – 2032.
Jean Paul Brun is located in Charnay, a village in the Southern Beaujolais just north of Lyon, in a beautiful area known as the "Terres Dorées" or Region of Golden Stones. Brun is the owner and winemaker at this 60+ hectare family estate and has attracted the attention of the French and American press for the wonderfully fruity and delicate wines he produces.
Brun wants to make "old-style" Beaujolais and his vinification differs from the prevailing practices in the region. He believes that the charm of Gamay's fruit is best expressed by the grapes' indigenous yeasts, rather than by adding industrial yeast. Virtually all Beaujolais is now made by adding a particular yeast during fermentation. Known as 71B, this yeast is a laboratory product made in Holland from a tomato base, which imparts wines with banana and candy aromas. It produces a beverage, but with no authenticity and little charm. Brun, on the other hand, wants to make a pure Gamay wine.
Salon Frederic et Daniel Brunier “Le Pigeoulet” 2020 Vaucluse
This table wine that comes from the Telegraph lineage is anything but ordinary. In the glass there are aromas of graphite/gunsmoke flint, cocoa powder, and what can best be described as a classic grenache red cherry. Given a few minutes to open, the wine throws lovely aromas of rose petals, plum compote, and is wrapped around a quince paste/mineral and chalky finish. I enjoy this wine with a little bit of time; hours later the wine becomes sort-of coffee and caramel which is perfect for these fall days and even day two the wine is deeply structured and throws brighter fruit tones. While the overall profile on day two is lovely, the tensity of day one is also welcomed - it’s more of a personal preference thing. Drink now – 2032, serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature, and serve alongside Korean BBQ, sweet potato chili, or prime rib.
From Kermit Lynch
Daniel Brunier often refers to the Pigeoulet as a “retro” rouge, in the sense of lightness, more aromatics than muscle, something especially easy to tipple. Makes sense when you keep in mind that just a few generations ago the average French man and woman were drinking a few liters of wine each day. The kids helped out, too—in fact, high school cafeterias served up wine with lunch until 1981. In this Pigeoulet, spice, black pepper, and deep southern herbaceousness abound. While we may no longer be inclined for liters, a bottle here and there will provide plenty of retro pleasure.
Marisa Cuomo 2021 “Ravello” Bianco
Everything from Cuomo just brings me mentally to the Amalfi coast; the nose smells like when the Big Sur waves hit and the wind carries the calla lily aromas to the beach. Alongside the very Big Sur meets Amalfi Coast vibes, there are lovely notes of lemon verbena, green melon, and chalk-like minerality. The palate has a dynamic interplay between a lemon candy like acidity and an oiliness that coats the entire palate. On day two, I feel the wine integrates more; the wine becomes round, the saline texture shines a little more, and the finish is lean and elegant. For food pairings I would opt for white fish, ceviche, shrimp scampi, or Caesar salad. Drink now – 2030 and serve at refrigeration temperature in all-purpose stemware.
Grape varieties: 60% Falanghina and 40% Biancolella
Zone of origin: Ravello and Scala
Exposure and altitude: Coastal terraces set 300/400 metres above sea level with south/south-west exposure.
Soil composition: Dolomitic-limestone rock