May 2025 | Terroir Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonOstertag 2021 Muenchberg Riesling
The Terroir Club received a fantastic shipment this month, featuring what is perhaps my favorite Alsatian producer and one of my favorite wines from them: Domaine Ostertag. A relatively recent addition to Alsace, established in the 1960s, Domaine Ostertag transitioned to strictly biodynamic farming in the 90s, sourcing oak from local forests and cultivating an ecosystem rather than just a vineyard. The Grand Cru vineyard of Muenchberg, with its pink sandstone and volcanic sediment at the foot of the Vosges mountains, yields a wine fermented dry for 12 months on its lees in stainless steel.
Initially wild, this wine is more spice and savory-driven, offering notes of saffron, cumin, dried pineapple, orgeat, and cinnamon candy. After approximately 15 minutes, it evolves into a softer, more floral expression with wafting aromatics of pollen and dried flowers. By day two, the wine becomes strong and dense, revealing a deeper palate reminiscent of creamed corn or polenta. For food pairings, consider potato gratin, creamy polenta and duck, or aged parmesan. Drink now–2033/5 and serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature.
Clos de la Barthassade 2022 "Les Gravettes"
The 2022 Les Gravettes Cuvée is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah from the Terrasses du Larzac region in the southwest of France. Fermented with partial whole cluster inclusion and aged for 17 months in a mix of demi-muids, barriques, and concrete eggs, this wine yields a structurally assertive and dense expression of Larzac. Upon opening, the wine displays a bright pink and purple hue in the glass, offering lifted notes of violets, cinnamon candies, lilac flowers, and an overall impression of dried blue flowers. The palate is notably elevated with apparent, youthful tannins that will integrate over time, balanced by vibrant acidity, indicating the wine's capacity for cellaring. Over time, the nose softens and warms with aromas of baby powder, dried sage, and a touch of graphite. By day two, the wine loses some of its fruitiness and presents more savory and hoisin notes, but it remains a lovely wine; overall, I prefer it on day one. For food pairings, I suggest pulled pork, hard cheddar, and a spicy sausage pizza. Drink now – 2034, and serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature.
Vacheron 2021 "Belle Dame" Sancerre Rouge
Cousins in winemaking, Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique Vacheron lead the estate in a continual evolution of biodynamic farming and single-vineyard expression. In prior years, their wines were allocated so tightly that securing any quantity for a club release was difficult, so when the opportunity presented itself, I excitedly acquired some cases. Vacheron wines present an intense minerality in their youth and can sometimes express more terroir than fruit. The 2021 Belle Dame is distinctly terroir- and mineral-driven, displaying an electric red in the glass alongside assertive notes of graphite, tarragon, saffron, and pencil shavings. Beneath this austerity lie more delicate notes of dried pink rose petals, white perfume, and white cherry. Over time, the wine slowly opens to reveal more fruit, though the fruit generally remains in the background until well into day two. On day two, the wine offers lavender oil, fresh strawberry, and abundant juicy fruit. If you prefer a more fruit-forward profile, I recommend opening and decanting it hours before serving; if you crave the terroir-driven character, open it half an hour before serving and keep it in the bottle. Drink now – 2041 and serve at cellar temperature in large bowl stemware.