May 2025 | Enthusiast Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonHuchet & Mourat 2015 Monnieres Saint Fiacre Muscadet Sevre et Maine
Some of the best wines originate from the most unassuming places; this "sneaky" Muscadet proves to be a strikingly present wine. It comes from a biodynamically farmed vineyard with soils of sand, schist, and granite. The resulting wine undergoes fermentation and then spends four years aging on its lees in a concrete egg, which aids in natural bâtonnage. Upon opening, the wine is low-toned, driven more by minerality than overt fruit. Arguably, it initially lacks prominent fruit character and presents a bracing minerality. The wine evokes sensations of cooked brown rice, chalk, Meyer lemon blossoms, broken oyster shells, and orgeat. After approximately 30 minutes, the wine softens, revealing notes of pollen and a touch of lemon oil, but it remains a wine that showcases terroir over fruit. By day two, the wine truly rounds out to a more typical Muscadet profile with a balance of citrus oil and minerality, hinting at the wine's true longevity. For food pairings, I would suggest selections straight from the ocean: oysters, clams, white fish crudo, or mushrooms with nori. Drink now – 2030 and serve in all-purpose stemware just above refrigeration temperature.
Rovellotti 2021 "Ronca al Maso" Colline Novaresi Vespolina
Rovellotti: for when you want to be transported to a small bottega in Italy with a slice of pizza and a glass of wine, but...you know...you can't. In the glass, the wine is rustic, dark, and structured (like a good slice of pizza—okay, I'm done), but it opens to reveal dark cherry, boysenberry, homemade raspberry jam, and dried herbs and violets. I did find this wine to be more sensitive to temperature and it really should be served as close to cellar temperature as possible. With time, the wine develops greater terroir expression with notes of forest floor, alpine oils, chanterelle mushroom, clove, and eucalyptus bark. For food pairings...just please order the pizza; it's the universal love language. However, if folded carbs and spices aren't your heart's desire, this would also be excellent with polenta and stewed mushrooms or ragu. Drink now – 2034 and serve in large bowl stemware at cellar temperature.
Bedrock 2023 Syrah
This is arguably the most "basic" wine club offering:
What is it? "Syrah."
Where's it from? "California."
Like...a single vineyard? "No."
Oh, so it must have some fancy winemaking. "Also, no."
The Bedrock 2023 Syrah features fruit from famed vineyards such as Bien Nacido and White Hawk in Santa Barbara County and Bedrock in Sonoma County, among others. This wine spends 13 months on 25% new oak, with the remainder in neutral oak, and offers a remarkable price-to-value ratio. Upon opening, the wine presents vibrant cherry, pink peppercorn, and peppermint notes with a crunchy palate of dried sage and violets (common with Syrah, particularly with some whole cluster fermentation). After about an hour, the herbal components of the wine become more prominent, accompanied by a nostalgic aroma of forest floor, a mix of wet redwood and wild flora. By day two, the wine is significantly more fruit-driven and plush, perhaps even more approachable than on day one. These wines tend to have a long life ahead of them, with an expected positive development of 15+ years. Serve alongside grilled fare, cacio e pepe, or pork belly. Drink now – 2040 and serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature.