May 2024 | Enthusiast Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonFlieder Hof 2022 Marie St. Magdalener Classico
St. Magdalener is a small DOC within Südtriol dating back to the 1970s; the designation of the DOC brought a previously financially distraught winegrowing region to an area of acclaim and esteem. The Classico bottling from Flieder is 97% Schiava blended from three parcels all farmed organically and vinified with native yeasts. As a varietal, Schiava is known to be a delicate and structurally balanced wine. For the 2022 St. Magdalener Classico right off the pop the wine shows soft aromatics of rose petals, baby powder, fresh violets, and red apple flesh. The palate as an almost silk-like texture with essentially negligible tannin and round acid; this isn’t to say there is lacking texture (their “neighbors” are the Dolomites after all), but weaved minerality. After a little time, the wine becomes more targeted and higher in tone with currant, pomegranate, and pink apples. On day two the wine sinks into a tenser and wilder persona, presenting as slightly brooding, rocky, and stemmy. Overall, I prefer the wine on day one after some time and suggest pairing this wine with crustaceans, wild fowl, wild rice, or roasted squash. Serve in all-purpose stemware and serve at cellar temperature; drink now – 2028.
Domaine Plageoles 2020 Braucol
Braucol is its own varietal entirely, somewhere between Tannat, Côt, or Loire Cabernet Franc (at least to me). As one might expect based on the mentioned similarities, there is a ton of structural elevation here as well as overt expression. Right off the pop the wine is very cherry oil in tone with pops of bright violet oil. From a fruit profile the core is deep and ripe strawberry and a backbone of cooking plums. The intensity of the wine fades a little (which is honestly a little welcomed…it’s intense) and the aromatics shift to raspberry tea leaves, bergamot, and brown sugar. The wine rounds out nicely to a savory wet forest floor, caramel, and molasses on the palate. For as engaging as the wine is on the pop, the wine falls apart a little on day two, likely due to a low sulfur regime. While I can absolutely love the vibrancy and energy of low sulfur wines, I often suggest drinking them within one day (though certainly not always!). Due to the elevated structure on this wine, you absolutely need to make something with protein and lots of flavor; think BBQ ribs, braised pork, or teriyaki skewers. Overall, I prefer the drinking window here between opening and 3-4 hours after opening. Serve at cellar temperature in all-purpose stemware and consume between now – 2026.
Fine Disregard 2021 Chalone Vineyard Chenin Blanc
Chalone Vineyard sits around the jagged and striking Pinnacles and creates wines of undeniable opulence in Monterey County. The Fine Disregard Chenin Blanc is a shape-shifter of a wine, masquerading as Muscadet, Bourgogne Blanc, or decanted Côte de Blanc Champagne. Immediately upon opening, the wine throws notes of toasted wheat, hay, and lemon pith. The palate has an unavoidable presence of lees and minerality that is pervasive from open to however-long-it -takes-you-to-drink-it. Assuming you can make it to day two with this wine, on day two the wine maintains the gorgeous day one profile, but textures of tight acidity come forward on the attack and continues to finish with that round mouthfeel. For food pairings I might suggest a classic roast chicken alongside roast potatoes or a simple fricassee salad. Drink now – 2034, serve in all-purpose stemware and serve at refrigeration temperature.