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March 2024 | Terroir Wine Club
by Caileen Brison
Envinate 2021 Lousas Vinas de Aldea
This Galician red wine from Envinate is an absolute treat to experience from an evolutionary perspective; the wine effortlessly dances from a perfumed and delicate red wine to a spice forward, insistent glass of wine. This cuvee is made almost entirely of Mencia planted on steep slate at 400-600 meters in elevation. Right off the pop, the wine is stemmy with dynamic tertiary tones of dried purple flowers, pencil shavings, and white pepper oil. The more aggressive spice tones complement the soft fruit tones of red currants and the warm notes of cumin and cardamom. Over time – and days – the wine becomes more spice forward and structurally disparate. Overall, I enjoy the wine best on day one and believe the wine is best suited for fat-driven foods (enter: cured meats and cheeses and olives). Drink now – 2030 and serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature.
Daniel-Etienne Defaix 2010 “Les Lys” 2010 Chablis Premier Cru
I don’t toot my own horn enough, but damn this is good.
The “Les Lys” 1er Cru parcel consists within the larger Vaillon climat and stands out – quite literally – with a northeastern exposition that results in a cooler climate and subsequently longer growing season. Right out of the gate the wine is warm and low toned and clearly showing signs of creamy, leesy oxidation. The palate is fleshy and oily with forward tones of golden apple and dandelion. The wine opens to a more tropical profile of orange blossom, pineapple, and orgeat. As wild as it seems, I almost prefer this 2010 Chablis best on day two when the wine sinks into gun smoke and flint; the wine retains the orgeat from the evening prior and adds an additional layer of tertiary complexity. This wine screams for salty foods like Marcona almonds, bivalves, or hard cheeses. For service, decant for 30 minutes (straight from refrigeration temperature) and serve in all-purpose stemware. Drink now – 2028/30.
Giacomo Baraldo “Il Bossolo” 2020 Toscana Sangiovese
This elegant, small parcel Sangiovese from Tuscany shifts your mind on what you think Tuscan Sangiovese should be. Gone are the notions of “Chianti reigns supreme” and enter the tenacity of Sangiovese to shimmer in the possibility of facets. Right off the pop the wine is aggressively spice forward with engaging aromas of sandalwood, cardamom, eucalyptus, and red currants. The herbal notes of desiccated sage and thyme balance the more low tone feels of olive and cinnamon oil. From a structural perspective, the wine is certainly elevated and almost demands food to calm down the assertive texture. With time, the wine becomes almost resin-like and the texture elevates to higher acidity and phenolics. Overall, I prefer the wine best an hour or two after being opened. For food pairings I would consider bucatini with red sauce, duck or pork rillette, or caramelized mushroom and crostini. For enjoyment, serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature and drink now – 2028/30.
This Galician red wine from Envinate is an absolute treat to experience from an evolutionary perspective; the wine effortlessly dances from a perfumed and delicate red wine to a spice forward, insistent glass of wine. This cuvee is made almost entirely of Mencia planted on steep slate at 400-600 meters in elevation. Right off the pop, the wine is stemmy with dynamic tertiary tones of dried purple flowers, pencil shavings, and white pepper oil. The more aggressive spice tones complement the soft fruit tones of red currants and the warm notes of cumin and cardamom. Over time – and days – the wine becomes more spice forward and structurally disparate. Overall, I enjoy the wine best on day one and believe the wine is best suited for fat-driven foods (enter: cured meats and cheeses and olives). Drink now – 2030 and serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature.
Daniel-Etienne Defaix 2010 “Les Lys” 2010 Chablis Premier Cru
I don’t toot my own horn enough, but damn this is good.
The “Les Lys” 1er Cru parcel consists within the larger Vaillon climat and stands out – quite literally – with a northeastern exposition that results in a cooler climate and subsequently longer growing season. Right out of the gate the wine is warm and low toned and clearly showing signs of creamy, leesy oxidation. The palate is fleshy and oily with forward tones of golden apple and dandelion. The wine opens to a more tropical profile of orange blossom, pineapple, and orgeat. As wild as it seems, I almost prefer this 2010 Chablis best on day two when the wine sinks into gun smoke and flint; the wine retains the orgeat from the evening prior and adds an additional layer of tertiary complexity. This wine screams for salty foods like Marcona almonds, bivalves, or hard cheeses. For service, decant for 30 minutes (straight from refrigeration temperature) and serve in all-purpose stemware. Drink now – 2028/30.
Giacomo Baraldo “Il Bossolo” 2020 Toscana Sangiovese
This elegant, small parcel Sangiovese from Tuscany shifts your mind on what you think Tuscan Sangiovese should be. Gone are the notions of “Chianti reigns supreme” and enter the tenacity of Sangiovese to shimmer in the possibility of facets. Right off the pop the wine is aggressively spice forward with engaging aromas of sandalwood, cardamom, eucalyptus, and red currants. The herbal notes of desiccated sage and thyme balance the more low tone feels of olive and cinnamon oil. From a structural perspective, the wine is certainly elevated and almost demands food to calm down the assertive texture. With time, the wine becomes almost resin-like and the texture elevates to higher acidity and phenolics. Overall, I prefer the wine best an hour or two after being opened. For food pairings I would consider bucatini with red sauce, duck or pork rillette, or caramelized mushroom and crostini. For enjoyment, serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature and drink now – 2028/30.
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