May 2023 | Terroir Wine Clubby Caileen Brison
Emiliano Falsini 2020 “Il Debbio” Cabernet Franc
This is the wine that won’t quit; open this wine on Wednesday and finish the bottle on Friday, it could not care less. In the glass the wine is bright garnet with an aromatic profile of eucalyptus, spearmint, flint, dried sage, and blueberries. This wine is an absolute joy to drink and only becomes more alpine with time showing a profile of brightness, integrated tannins, and tons of dried rose petals. On day two and day three the wine certainly becomes a tad more subdued, but in no way is a detriment to the overall wine. There’s an unbridled elegance and longevity in this bottle and it is a treat to share it with you. Drink now – 2035/6, serve in all-purpose stemware at cellar temperature, and serve alongside grilled fare, steak with chimichurri, or a perfectly done burger.
Whitcraft 2017 Presqu’ile Vineyard Chardonnay
Winemaker Drake Whitcraft carries on an aggressive persona in the wine industry from his father; to eschew the status quo and to make wines of badass character. Drake’s father, Chris Whitcraft, famously called the last wine depression of the late 1990’s a partial consequence of Robert Parker (among other cultural paradigms). The Whitcraft winery doesn’t own a destemmer, racks everything by gravity, hand bottles, physically touches every single bottle, and brings to you these wild, terroir driven wines. Due to the winemaking in the wines, they often don’t peak until years later. I was very lucky that – somehow – a few spare cases were lost in a warehouse, and I could share the 2017 Presqu’ile Vineyard Chardonnay.
Right off the pop the wine is golden honeycomb in the glass with a warm nose of lemon oil, cardamom, and guava with a light spice that lingers with a pervasive leesy quality. This translates to the finish which seems to last forever with a bright front palate and a warm finish. The acid is soft and well-integrated with texture coming from salinity and minerality. On day two the wine sinks more into this creamy, custard, and enveloping character. I love this wine and I want to eat it with baked brie, roast chicken, and potatoes. Read that again; this is not an “or” situation, this is an “and” situation. Serve in all-purpose stemware at refrigeration temperature, and drink now – 2029.
RAEN 2021 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
This comes from the lineage of Mondavi, but from a new perspective. Carlo Mondavi recognizes and respects the land in ways that are pioneering throughout the industry and the wines show this. The RAEN 2021 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is beautiful off the pop with bright red currants, raspberries, blue fruits, fresh violets, and soft tannins. There is a bright and energetic profile that is nostalgic of passionfruit and dragon fruit in a way that is pleasantly surprising. After several hours the wine becomes more savory and warm with notes of chestnuts, almond skins, papaya, and a supple white plum flesh. On day two the wine certainly loses some energy and vivacity but maintains a generally consistent fruit core. While the wine can maintain integrity through the end of day two, I prefer the energy of day one. Serve alongside pork dishes, roast fowl, barley dishes, or a meat and cheese board. Serve in Burgundy stemware at cellar temperature and drink now – 2036.