March 2023 | Terroir Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonDeovlet 2018 Star Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Caileen’s notes
Deovlet has always been an impressive producer for me; their wines across the board are excellent and I’m still not sure how they’ve remained under the radar for so long. This single vineyard expression of California Cabernet Sauvignon will make you re-think what California can do. Right off the pop the wine is blackberry, marionberry, nori, and pink peppercorns. There is a lovely high tone that flirts with the currant/pomegranate spectrum of bright red fruit which dances nicely alongside rose petals, flint, and bright acid. Given time, the wine opens further to more floral and herbal tones with great retention of texture. This wine rings beautifully over days and should be best enjoyed over the course of a dinner with friends. Drink now – 2028/30, serve in all-purpose stemware, and serve at cellar temperatures. For food, everything you consider pairing with Bordeaux works here – wines like this make me want to open my copy of “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” and finally give Beef Wellington a go…
Sabelli Frisch 2021 “Obie” Riesling Curtis Vineyard
Caileen’s notes
This is a Riesling for people who “don’t like Riesling”; a Riesling that masquerades as a Chenin Blanc if I were to taste it blind. On the nose are the expected aromas of papaya, grapefruit pith, and lemon oil, but there’s an exciting note of wool, orgeat, and pollen that reminds me of my favorite Chenin Blanc. As the wine evolves, the notes of white flowers open more and has a lovely bouquet of gardenia and lily. Over time, the wine structure remains relatively untouched and consistent, though I like the mid-palate round structure more on day one. For food pairings I would consider a cheese quiche, shrimp scampi, or duck fat fries. Drink now – 2030, serve in all-purpose stemware, and serve just above refrigeration temperature.
Ballot-Millot 2018 Volnay 1er Taillepieds
Caileen’s notes
It’s a rare occasion when I get to place Burgundy in a wine club, and I’m excited to bring this to a glass near you. Speaking of stemware, please make sure you serve this in a glass with a relatively large bowl. I found that with this wine, all-purpose stemware really closed off the wine and switching glassware was quite beneficial. Out of the bottle this wine is delicate and floral with an enveloping arc of sandalwood that warms me to my core. The glass holds aromas of currants, roasted herbs, black currant, and a pervasive acidity. Over time the wine becomes more alpine, higher, and ethereal in the glass. The wine feels like an easy hug from an old friend. This makes me want a warm stew, some rabbit rillettes, or pot pie. Drink now – 2034, serve in large bowl stemware, and serve at cellar temperatures.