July 2025 | Terroir Wine Club

Domaine Aux Moines 2023 “Le Berceau des Fees” vin de France

Composed of young-vine Savennières Chenin Blanc, this dense and waxy expression of Chenin shows promise of complexity for years to come. This parcel comes from mixed schist, sandstone, and clay soils, all farmed organically while practicing biodynamic principles. The resulting juice is fermented with native yeast, with subsequent aging on lees in tank.

Immediately upon opening, the wine reveals waxy green melon, dense citrus oils, Meyer lemon flowers, green apple candies, and a dynamic structural evolution, winding between plush mid-palate strength and tense acidity. I particularly love this wine after an hour or so of evolution, as the bright notes become more cohesive with its lower-toned structure. A hint of custard and staunch minerality emerges towards the end of the evening, with peak performance observed at the end of day one, or—oddly enough—on day three. Wines like these often need a few more years in the bottle to show their best, but I genuinely enjoyed this one at the end of day one.

For food pairings, I would suggest broiled white fish in butter or oil with fresh herbs, scallops, or vegetable quiche. Drink now – 2029 and serve in all-purpose stemware at refrigeration temperature.

Isabelle & Denis Pommier “Grain de Survie” 2021 Irancy

Irancy, located west of Chablis, is one of the most northerly red wine-growing regions in France. Irancy AOC wines must contain at least 90% Pinot Noir and can include up to 10% César grapes (a darker and more tannic varietal). However, this specific bottling from Isabelle & Denis is 100% Pinot Noir.

Having witnessed the declining health of both their vines and their family under conventional farming practices during their childhoods, the Pommiers were early adopters of organic farming when they began their own production. They have been certified organic since 2010. While these vines are sourced for the Irancy bottling, they are Ecocert EU certified organic.

In the glass, the wine is beautiful, offering elegant notes of flint, potpourri, sage, white cap mushroom, pomegranate, and even brie cheese rind (don’t be scared, it’s good!). Given time, the minerality opens up and the wine blossoms, particularly in larger bowl stemware. The wine's longevity is remarkable; its structure softens and rounds the palate nicely over time, giving rise to notes of rose petals, currants, and soft caramel. For food pairings, consider pasta and pizza dishes with truffle, a herb-dense roast chicken, or coq au vin. Drink now – 2033/6 and serve in large bowl stemware at cellar temperature.

Ar Pe Pe 2017 Sassella Stella Retica

The Terroir Club is no stranger to Ar.Pe.Pe.; in September of 2023, I featured their entry-level Valtellina Superiore, which was, rightfully, very well received. Sassella is a region within Valtellina known for its steep granitic ridge, where the vines struggle, imparting an inherent typicity to the Nebbiolo grown in this subregion. The resulting fruit is fermented and aged for 24 months in chestnut barrels, allowing the wine's structure to soften.

Right out of the bottle, the wine presents notes of cherry cola, spearmint, brown sugar, cardamom, and blueberry oil, alongside a gritty tannic structure. Given how young the wine is (for the region), it’s no surprise that it is aggressively aromatic immediately upon opening. However, after just 15 minutes, the wine already settles into the typical mountain Nebbiolo characteristics of burnt orange, tarragon, celery seed, camphor, and sandalwood. Due to the wine's strong backbone, its consistency is remarkable, changing negligibly into day two.

For food pairings, medium-rare to rare soft red meat, seasoned lightly with salt and fresh herbs, would be lovely. Alternatively, wild mushroom risotto or Parmesan would be fantastic. Drink now – 2033 and serve in large bowl stemware at cellar temperature.