July 2024 | Terroir Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonElisabetta Fagiuoli 2023 Canaiuolo Rosato
A couple years ago I featured a rosé in the July Terroir Wine Club and no one seemed mad about it, so why not do it again (perfect for before this hot weekend ahead, woo!)? This rosé comes from a well-loved producer in the shop, Elisabetta Fagiuoli from Tuscany. This 2023 rosé of Canaiuolo from Elisabetta is very pale salmon in color in the glass with notes of currants, white strawberries, and white plums. There is a satin-like texture with a very beautiful floral profile of lily and dandelion. Within minutes, the fruit becomes a bit fleshier like red and pink apples and fresh strawberry. My vision with this wine is a lunch soirée with friends and family; think warm sandwiches, pizza, or things of the like. Serve in all-purpose stemware at refrigeration temperature and drink now – 2028 (you don’t have to drink rosé within the year – it ages just like any other wine!).
Magaña 2001 Gran Reserva
Sometimes it’s fun to drink old wines; they definitely have a different energy and it’s great to experience that without having to do the waiting part. Magaña is a producer who prides himself on holding his wines back until he feels they are ready to drink. Consequently, this 2001 bottling of the Gran Reserva is the current release. This blend is inspired from his travels in Bordeaux and is 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the remaining 10% a blend of Syrah, Malbec, and Tempranillo, all matured in both new and used French and American oak barrels. Despite being 23 years old, I don’t think this wine needs to be decanted; it should be sufficient to stand the wine up straight for 24 hours before opening to let the particulates settle. In addition, I was able to open the wine with a standard corkscrew and did not need to use an Ah-So (a pronged wine opener). Right upon opening the wine is caramel with deep, plush notes of cooked plums, leather, and a lifted red cherry fruit profile. Despite age, this wine still carries exceptional floral high tones such as violets and rose petals. After a couple hours the wine starts to flirt with flavors of balsamic reduction with a backbone of white pepper oil. As to be expected, the wine does not hold up well on day two, so I suggest drinking this over one meal. Serve at cellar temperature in all-purpose stemware alongside your favorite grilled fare of choice and drink now.
Boulay “La Cote” 2022 Sancerre
Boulay has undeniably made a name for himself in Chavignol, a sub-appellation of Sancerre known and regarded for its distinct soil type. The soils in “La Côte” are essentially identical to the Kimmeridgian soils in the top vineyards of Chablis. This gives rise to an incredibly structured wine that not only shows aggressive power in its youth, but can absolutely stand the test of time. Right off the pop this wine is glittered with a chalk-like minerality that gives textures of hard water and salinity. The wine is initially slightly closed off – likely due to relative youth – but opens to notes of passionfruit, toasted rye and white corn. After several hours the wine becomes even fleshier with notes of pollen, squash blossom, green melon, and key lime. On day two and day three the wine starts to show it’s colors and opens to shades of lychee, lemon oil, and sunflowers. Throughout the lifetime of the bottle, the consistency of the acidity in the wine is remarkable and unwavering. Given the structural integrity of the wine, if you’re going to drink this young, you should absolutely pair the wine with a fatty yet light food; think Fois, oysters, focaccia bread, hard cheeses, etc. If you’re aiming to drink the wine from now ~ end of 2025 I would decant to allow the wine to open to its full potential. Alternatively, drink 2025 – 2045 (if stored correctly), serve just above refrigeration temperature, and serve in all-purpose stemware.