July 2023 | Enthusiast Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonClemens Busch 2021 Trocken Riesling
Background
“Light-footed as a gazelle, Clemens Busch jumps between his stone terraces. He wants to show me the terroir between the closely plated vines on poles, which is the source of his inspiration and the foundation of his family’s life: the Pündericher Marienburg – at its heart, one of the most privileged vineyards in the Mosel.
In eco-viticulture, the vines need far more attention from the grower then in conventional production, particularly on the Mosel, where the climatic situation is far less stable than in the Rhine Valley.
‘Sometimes, we ask ourselves whether it makes sense to work as painstakingly as we do,’ Clemens says. But he believes that going organic is ‘the only possible way to our style and and our idea of high quality […]. Only then can the wine be authentic and true to the origin and the natural grape flavor’.”
The Finest Wines of Germany: A Regional Guide to the Best Producers and Their Wines, Stephan Reinhardt
From Caileen
As I’ve stated on several occasions, Clemens Busch is one of my favorite Riesling producers in the world. The wines have a tenacious vibrancy that pulls me in and leaves me consistently wanting more. The 2021 Trocken Riesling is an energetic cuvee representing the best parcels of the Mosel with aggressive tones of lemon oil, guava, pineapple, and lychee. While the aromatics are very vibrant and pronounced, the palate has a supple salinity from lees and gray slate, which transitions into mouth-watering acidity. The wine has incredible integrity and maintains the profile over days, with the profile extending well into day two and three. Serve this wine alongside pork belly dishes, boiled potatoes, or anything starchy and fatty (a few of our favorite things…). Drink this wine now through 2041 and serve in all-purpose stemware at refrigeration temperature.
Garnier & Fils 2021 Petit Chablis
From Caileen
This is such an oceanside food wine – the nose has squash blossom, jalapeño, fresh honey, yellow daisies, and low-tone salinity. The fruit profile is present, yet politely subdued – think salted guava and preserved lemons. The wine on day two is very comparable to the profile on day one, but leans away from the green notes and into the oily, yellow, and low tones. The acidity is bright and ripping here despite a warm profile with a lingering finish of lees. The wine maintains consistency from day one to two and is begging for food regardless; think smoked white fish, oysters, seared peppers, or crab cakes. Drink this wine from 2023 – 2030 and serve just above refrigeration temperature in all-purpose stemware.
Lang & Reed 2021 Cabernet Franc
From Lang & Reed
We, Tracey & John Skupny, started Lang & Reed Napa Valley in 1993 with the goal to explore the distinct charms of Cabernet Franc and to craft wines that are both expressive and enjoyable to drink.
The foundation of our wine experience began almost half a century ago while working in the restaurant trade in Kansas City. Having attained positions as wine stewards (sommeliers), the lure of vineyards and wineries brought us to California in 1980, settling finally in the Napa Valley by 1984.
During our wine ‘foundation’ years, we became intrigued by the magnitude of distinction Cabernet Franc held from notable wine regions in France: Loire Valley and Bordeaux. The early 80’s in Napa Valley found vintners utilizing Bordeaux varieties as components of their red wine blends, and Cabernet Franc was a key varietal. Its critical contribution led us to explore the broad range of aromatics and flavors emerging from Cabernet Franc. In 1993, a prototype was crafted that was true to type, redolent in aroma, and pure in flavor, all the while maintaining balance and structure. Lang & Reed Napa Valley was born, and the rest is history.
Named after our two sons, J Reed and Jerzy Lang, we committed to having Lang & Reed Napa Valley be strictly family owned and operated. Winemaking has become storytelling for us, and our wines tell the story of our family and our wonderful life together.
From Caileen
When you’re thinking of a wine for several months, you should probably just drink it. I tasted this wine several months ago and was so impressed with how "Loire-esq" this California expression of Cabernet Franc is. On the pop the wine is very pretty with notes of violets, rose petals, cinnamon, and an elegant reduction that is nostalgic of carob, coca, and high-toned purple. After a couple hours the wine just becomes more heightened, leather-like and so very rustically beautiful. This wine would be a dream with roasted meats, veal, lamb, or grilled mushroom caps. Drink 2023 – 2019, serve in all-purpose stemware, and drink at cellar temperature.