December 2025 | Enthusiast Wine Club
by Caileen BrisonChateau Ollieux Romains 2021 Grand Vin du Languedoc
As we’ve discussed in the shop, there are wine regions that fly under the radar and produce wines of immense character and class. The Languedoc is a broad area in the southeast of France that cultivates a wide array of varieties and, consequently, is not an easy region for the general consumer to “pin down” and classify. With that said, this blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Marsanne is a stellar wine, crafted with some delicate cold pre-fermentation skin contact to extract aromatics and texture.
As varieties go, all three are relatively high pH (low acidity), which creates a soft, round, and more mouth-coating palate texture. Immediately upon opening, the wine shows notes of honeysuckle, fresh apple juice, shortbread cookie, and a touch of saltine cracker. After thirty minutes has passed, the wine comes closer to its final form with intense Bosc pear and apricot pit that smells more like Amaretto. On day two, the same aromatics and texture permeate the glass, but the presence is deeper and more fleshed out. For food pairings, I would opt for roasted mushrooms (or mushroom soup), pork chop with a white sauce, or quail. Drink now - 2029 (it will get very honeyed over time if you prefer that) and serve in large-bowl stemware or all-purpose stemware just above refrigeration temperature.
Pavillon de Chavannes 2023 "Cuvee des Ambassades" Brouilly
This sneaky gem of a wine comes from Mount Brouilly, an extinct volcano overlooking Haut Beaujolais and Brouilly. The vines creep up the hill behind the “quaint” Pavillon (it’s... not that small) and are planted to Gamay and Chardonnay farmed without pesticides or herbicides. The heritage of the wine spans several centuries with ties to the church and Thivin, though it is currently operated by the daughter of the family, Emily, and a few of her vigneron friends.
Upon opening, the wine has excellent Brouilly typicity with a textured palate and a bouquet of cranberry and spearmint, but it definitely needs time to open and unwind. After thirty minutes and a slight chill in the fridge, the beauty of the wine shines with lovely wild bramble tones of alpine blackberry and marionberry. Over time, the wine calms and becomes a deep, plush, and enveloping wine. On day two, I feel the wine’s structure loses some integrity, although the aromatics are still lovely. Serve alongside beef stew, rabbit, or red Tofu curry. Drink now - 2028/2030 and serve in all-purpose stemware just below cellar temperature.
Domaine des Ronces 2022 Cremant du Jura
Crémant is any sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne method from France that is produced outside of Champagne.1 Domaine Ronces is a certified organic and biodynamic project in a southern village of the Côtes du Jura, making red, white, and sparkling wines.2 This Crémant is made with 100% Chardonnay, spends 24 months on lees, and has a minuscule dosage of 0.3 g/L, making it essentially bone dry (and dry to the general consumer).
Upon opening, the wine has energetic fruit tones like passion fruit and Pink Lady apples that sit atop a creamy and custard-like palate. After some time passes, the wine softens and starts to emerge with more floral notes, some golden apple tones, and a sweet sticky rice with mango (yum!). While I know most folks won't drink sparkling wine over two days, if you can wait, I loved it on day two, when the aromatics were more free and the palate was more forward. Serve alongside grilled or roast chicken, creamed potatoes, or artisan whole wheat bread with sea salt. Drink now - 2034/2036 and serve in all-purpose stemware at refrigeration temperature.